The Spirit of Haida Gwaii
Haida Gwaii is a magnificent archipelago that lies 100 km off the northwest coast of British Columbia. It was previously called the Queen Charlotte Islands from 1787 to 2010. The Haida people have lived here for many thousands of years. They are often called the Islands at the Edge of the world and are sometimes compared to the Galapagos for the great variety of marine species and wildlife found here.
When you journey to this remote archipelago you will discover rich Indigenous culture and untouched natural beauty. Here you will find towering poles, rainforests, ancient villages and more.
I had the good fortune to go to Haida Gwaii on a group tour in early July 2022. I will relay some of my experiences here. There was so much to absorb and to see.
Haida Gwaii escaped the glaciation of the last ice age so it is home to trees, plants and animals that are unique to this area. There is beauty and awesome power in nature which feels very raw and wild. Heavy rainfall here creates a lush rainforest thick with mosses, western red cedar and Sitka spruce. We were told they do not get much snow but they get massive storms during the winter months.
After Europeans landed here in the 1700s, diseases such as smallpox nearly wiped out the Haida population. There are only a small number of villages now, including Queen Charlotte City (Daajing Giids), Skidegate and Old Masset. Two large islands, Graham Island and Moresby Island dominate, and there are over 400 small islands.
In the late 1800s, life for the Haida people changed when the Canadian government enacted the Indian Act of 1876 as well as the Potlatch ban of 1885. No longer were the Haida allowed to carve or raise totem poles (called ‘poles’). Totem poles were banned as well as ceremonies such as the potlatch, a gathering that emphasizes feasting and giving gifts. The potlatch ban was finally lifted in 1951.
Current generations make determined efforts to preserve and protect their land, culture and traditions.
We were fortunate on this tour to have the wise leadership of several Indigenous guides who travelled with us by boat or showed us poles, longhouses and more. Master carvers use cedar trees to carve their poles and the meaning of these poles (the animals, birds etc.) was explained to us. It is a major effort to carve a pole such as this as well as to raise it to a standing position.
One day we travelled by boat going west through Skidegate Narrows and we stopped at Chaat’l Island for lunch (barbecue salmon and salads) on the rocky beach. Our guide, James Cowpar (pictured below), took us on a short walk into the woods where we were shown the remnants of the Chaat’l village (his clan). I loved the old totem in the middle of these woods and got a glimpse of a community who thrived here for many generations in the long-distant past. This was a moving experience. As we travelled further in the boat, we saw sea lions basking on the rocky shore and a flock of tufted puffins swooping through the misty air around us.
Most of the population lives on Graham Island in villages close to the ocean. There is one main road (pictured below) which takes you from Daajing Giids north to Skidegate, Tlell, Port Clemens, Masset and Tow Hill. We took this route several times to see the various sights, like Balance Rock.
If you go to Haida Gwaii, a visit to the Haida Heritage Centre is worthwhile as you will be shown by a guide the history of the islands and the Haida people. There are several towering poles outside this centre. Poles are erected facing towards the water. The poles are maps of Haida lives and form a connection with the supernatural, depicting crests and animals associated with families and their heritage e.g. raven, bear, eagle, beaver, etc. Here is a beautiful pole displayed inside the Haida Heritage Centre.
I do want to mention the whole southern part of Haida Gwaii, most of which is unspoiled wilderness. Gwaii Haanas is designated as a natural park reserve and occupies much of Moresby Island. It is a major attraction for nature lovers who like to explore rugged beaches, whales, bald eagles and sea lions. Some people go hiking on Moresby Island but you need experience and a plan because there are no major trails.
Watchmen were posted at strategic places in the villages to survey the village. One evening as we were leaving on our bus from Old Masset, we were treated to the sight of a bald eagle perched on every single hydro pole along the road, on both sides. This was an auspicious sight. We felt as if these eagles were the watchmen over us that day.
The Haida language is unrelated to any other language. Called Xaad Kil in the north (Masset) and Xaayda Kil in the south (Skidegate). A hundred years ago the Haida language was spoken in all the villages. This is no longer the case. We saw signs in Haida e.g. Queen Charlotte City (Daajing Giids) but the Haida language is listed as critically endangered by UNESCO. There are only a small number of fluent speakers remaining today. It will be a major effort to preserve this language.
One evening we were treated to a Haida feast in Skidegate at the home of elder Roberta Olson. Her place is called Keenawii’s Kitchen. She has beautiful Indigenous artifacts, canoe paddles and more on her walls. She introduced the dinner with her Eagle feather and a prayer. We had venison soup, followed by an appetizer with bannock and seaweed on a small plate, then an entree including salmon from the smoke house as well as salmon that was freshly caught that day. Incredibly delicious! We were entertained by a young woman who sang and played her drum. This was a memorable evening.
We also had a special evening hosted by Leslie Brown and her family and friends at their longhouse in Old Masset. After serving us dinner, Leslie and her family put on a Haida performance in costumes, of dance, song and drumming. They invited the audience to join them in their traditional dance. First the women, then the men joined in. I got the sense of how grounded the Haida people are, feeling how strong their connection is with the floor and to the Earth as they danced.
Another highlight was our trip to Tow Hill Park which is on the northeastern tip of Graham Island. While most of Haida Gwaii has very rocky shores, this entire area has long expanses of flat beach that stretch for miles in both directions. We took the boardwalk trail to the opening which was volcanic rock. Standing on that platform looking at the scenery in both directions took my breath away. To the west, the beach stretches for a long way. On the right, more expanses of beach as you look to the northeast and can see the tip of Rose Spit, the very top of Graham Island. Far beyond that lies Alaska. This place is pristine wilderness at its best.
Haida people belong to either the Eagle clan or the Raven clan and they marry into the opposite clan. One of our guides explained that their culture is matrilineal, meaning the ancestral descent is traced through the maternal instead of paternal lines. Something I felt as our guides spoke to us was the deep love and respect they have for nature and their culture. As some of the guides spoke to us and told us stories, I sensed how much they have imbibed their history. They are the wisdom-keepers and fulfill their mission to always pass on the stories and the history. They, like other Indigenous cultures, are primarily an oral culture.
Perhaps this article has encouraged you to consider your own trip to Haida Gwaii, if you have not already been there. May you be inspired by these islands at the edge of the world.
I give thanks in Haida for this wonderful experience. ‘Haawa’
Warmest wishes,
Brenda