Assisi, Italy: Place of Peace
Basilica di San Francesco, Assisi
It took my breath away. There it was: beautiful Assisi lying on the side of a hill with a grand medieval castle the Rocca Maggiore atop the hill.
I had the good fortune to travel throughout Italy for several weeks this fall. The last week of my trip I spent in beautiful Assisi, in the heart of Umbria, one of the best-loved towns in Italy.
When I travelled by train from Rome through the Italian countryside, suddenly the majesty of the town of Assisi appeared to the east. It took my breath away. There it was: beautiful Assisi lying on the side of a hill with a grand medieval castle, the Rocca Maggiore, sitting atop the hill, overlooking the town, offering a panorama of the whole area. The magnificent Basilica di San Francesco is on the north side of the town. My heart skipped a beat. When I stepped off the train I felt I was entering a sacred place.
Nearly 800 years after the death of Saint Francis (1182-1226), Assisi is steeped in the spirit of its most prominent and humble citizen. The medieval character and history of the town has been preserved. It is both a pilgrim and tourist destination. Assisi is extraordinarily rich with basilicas, shrines, monasteries, art relics and treasures. This is a beautiful spiritual place with deep roots and history.
Above all, Assisi is a sanctuary and a place of peace for all who come here. People of all faiths and backgrounds feel called to experience the peace of Assisi.
I am not Catholic, but, like so many others, I felt called to experience the peace and transformation that Assisi offers. Spending time in Assisi, I gained great appreciation for the teachings of Saint Francis and Saint Clare who lived and died here.
I participated in a spiritual retreat and we stayed in the Monastero Sant’Andrea, across the street from the Basilica di San Francesco. This monastery is run by Franciscan nuns, who are very sweet and welcoming. I had the most gorgeous views of the Italian countryside from my window, and I heard the church bells ringing each day.
The Basilica di San Francesco is majestic and welcoming. It was completed in 1230 and dominates the north end of Assisi, with dramatic views of the Spoleto Valley.
When I walked into the upper basilica, I saw very large frescoes on both side walls, painted by some the the greatest artists of that time. These cherished paintings depict the life of Francis and his spiritual journey, on one wall, and of Christ, on the other wall. Mass is held regularly in both the upper and lower basilicas. The Franciscan way of life is shown in each of the frescoes: a simple life of poverty and devotion to God. I loved these frescoes and the stories they tell.
The lower basilica is the oldest and contains the tomb of Francis over the small altar, as well as relics, including his sandals and tunic. This is an incredible experience to see the tomb and the belongings of Francis 800 years after his death.
On two mornings I went into the lower basilica to meditate at 6:45 am and a choir of cloistered nuns was singing. I could not see them, but their voices were completely angelic. I felt transported to another dimension listening to these nuns singing.
Being in the Basilica di San Francesco was an inspiring experience and I felt serene and humble in this holy place. Because the basilica was right across the street, I was able to make numerous visits. How many thousands of people have come and prayed and meditated in this basilica? I thought. They have all left a field of beauty and tranquillity.
Peace was for Francis his greatest ideal, the highest aspiration at the centre of his life and the mission of his friars in the world. Francis dialogued with God and he lived in harmony with all creatures. He loved birds and animals and lived among them. He saw all beings as equals and embraced each one with love.
It is his famous prayer that evokes his message most clearly:
“Lord, make me an instrument of your peace.”
Because his mission of peace was so central to his teachings, his appeal goes to people of all backgrounds, both religious and non-religious. He taught by example and lived without worldly goods.
One afternoon we took a long walk outside the walls of Assisi, past some olive groves and down a steep cobblestone path. At the bottom of this hill we visited the Church of San Damiano. It was here that Francis heard the words “Rebuild my church” in 1205. After hearing this miraculous calling, he set about rebuilding the crumbling structure, not knowing that he would actually rebuild the entire Catholic church. He is known for rejuvenating the Catholic Church. He enlisted the help of his followers, carrying many blocks of stone to build the new church. You can actually see the outline of the old church within the newer one. He started a new order: the Franciscan Order, which lives today. It was also in this place that Francis wrote his famous ‘Canticle of Brother Sun’ (also called the ‘Canticle of the Creatures’). You may be familiar with ‘Brother Sun, Sister Moon’ from this poem.
At San Damiano you can feel the presence of both Francis and Clare. This is a church and a monastery built in the 12th century where Saint Clare built her community. Here Saint Clare was cloistered with her disciples. Inspired by Francis’ example, she founded the Order of the Poor Clares. The cross that spoke to Francis at San Damiano is now in a small chapel to the right of the altar.
The inside of this church is beautiful and I experienced a deep quiet as I meditated in the pew. The grounds and the view are breathtaking in this sacred place. This was a treasured visit at San Damiano and I am very grateful I had this experience.
On another day we walked across the town to the spacious Piazza Santa Chiara. There in front of us was the Basilica di Santa Chiara. It was here that Clare first heard her friend Francis preach. Clare and Francis had a deep love and devotion to each other, although this was not a romantic relationship. Saint Clare is buried in this church, along with personal relics and a book containing prayers.
A special highlight for me was the day we drove several kilometres outside Assisi up to Mount Subasio, to explore the Eremo delle Carceri. This hermitage complex is located in a steep forest gorge in Umbria.This is where Francis and and many of his followers lived.
There is a small monastery there as well as spacious grounds, filled with forest paths, statues, a deep ravine with lovely trees and the sounds of birds singing.
We walked to the end of the main path where we found a small outdoor chapel. We sat in this chapel, Barry played his harmonium and we sang beautiful, devotional songs. This was a heart-filled experience.
The whole area had an ethereal feeling as I walked in the woods where Francis walked and prayed. The presence of his spirit is felt here. I kept being so aware that Francis walked in these very woods. He communed with the birds and nature in this very place. The wooded ravine is laced with steep trails where we walked down below to shrines and caves where Francis and his followers lived. These monks were true to their teachings. They owned nothing and slept in these stone caves. This was one of my favourite places to be in Assisi. I found this place to be an oasis of peace and tranquillity on the slopes of Mount Subasio.
Another site we visited was the Chiesa di Santo Stefano, a small church in the middle of the town. The day we were there we were the only people in the church. We sang songs and enjoyed the peace in this church. I loved the quiet and stillness in this church. Legend has it that the bells of Santo Stefano chimed out spontaneously when Francis took his last breath in 1226.
On the last day we drove to the Basilica di Santa Maria Degli Angeli, a very large church on the valley floor below the town, built between 1569 and 1679. Inside this grand baroque church is the Porziuncola, a tiny chapel where Francis prayed and began his order and where he died in 1226. This chapel still stands in that same condition and is surrounded by the much larger church with glorious stained glass windows and an ornate, domed ceiling. The place radiated unconditional love and serenity and being here leaves a felt experience. Visitors from all over the world come and go.
Barry and Joyce Vissell led the retreat that I participated in. They embody what they teach: unconditional love and acceptance of each person. Barry and Joyce provide a safe space for people to open their hearts and to share. Each day we met as a group in the mornings. We sang songs and did circle dances of joining together, and activities of deep sharing. Each person in the group received deep healing and transformation during the week. I could not have experienced all that I did without them. They graciously took us to all these sacred sites. To know more about Barry and Joyce’s workshops, books and to sign up for their newsletter, please look at their website: www.sharedheart.org.
Assisi needs to be experienced in person. It is hard to capture it in words. My visit and meditations there have transformed me. Saint Francis of Assisi has touched my soul, and I am deeply grateful for the peace that I received.
I share this peace with you today.
Warm Wishes,
Brenda
"Helping you navigate through the second half of life with clarity, vision and purpose"
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